FAQ

Technical Data

Usage Properties

What is Industrial Clear?

Industrial Clear is an easy to use, 2 part epoxy resin. It cures to a high gloss, rock hard finish that lasts for years with excellent yellowing resistance. It was intentionally formulated as a durable coating for table tops, counter tops, bartops, live edge wood slabs, concrete floors and other applications that need to withstand the wear and tear of everyday use. Due to its high Shore rating, it resists the scratches and damages that can typically occur in high traffic
areas.

How do I use Industrial Clear?

Industrial Clear has an easy 2:1 resin to hardener mixing ratio. In other words, combine 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener, by volume. Mix thoroughly for 4 minutes using a mixing stick with a flat surface to scrape the sides and bottom of the container as you stir. Add color or keep it clear. Apply to your surface and let it cure for 24 hours. Industrial Resin will reach its full cure after 48 hours. When working with epoxy resin, it’s very important to follow the recommended mix ratios: do not add more hardener hoping to speed up the cure or you’ll end up with a sticky mess on your hands.

What is the working time of Industrial Clear?

Once the resin and hardener have been mixed, you have approximately 45 minutes to pour Industrial Clear over your project before it gets too thick to work with. Epoxy resin is sensitive to mass and temperature and will start to cure much more quickly if left to sit in the mixing container. For this reason, we recommend pouring within 10 minutes of mixing.

How long does it take for Industrial Clear to cure?

Industrial Clear will be solid and dry to the touch at the 24 hour mark and will reach a full, rock hard cure at 48 hours. Epoxy resin cure times are affected by temperature: it will take longer for resin to cure in cooler temperatures whereas warmer temperatures promote a faster cure. Often resin that seems “bendy” hasn’t finished curing yet and just needs a little more time or to be moved to a warmer environment.

What is Industrial Clear’s coverage like?

Based on a thickness of 1/8" or 3 mm:
The 1.5 gallon Industrial Clear kit covers approximately 4.46 sq m.
The 3 gallon Industrial Clear kit covers approximately 8.9 sq m.
The 15 gallon Industrial Clear kit covers approximately or 44.6 sq m.

What is Industrial Clear’s heat resistance?

Once cured, Industrial Clear can withstand temperatures of up to 350F (176C). Be aware that very hot objects, like a dish straight out of the oven, a hot pan or boiling water, may leave an impression on the cured resin surface. Allow the resin to completely cure for a full 48 hours before putting your project into use.

How hard is Industrial Clear?

When prepared according to the label instructions and fully cured, Industrial Clear has a Shore D rating of 83, meaning it’s firm and durable, but not brittle. It cures into a rock hard coating that lasts for years and will withstand the wear and tear of everyday use. It’s important to note that epoxy resins harden up over time so while Industrial Clear feels hard to the touch at 24 hours, it will reach its absolute full cure at 48 hours.

How strong is Industrial Clear?

Industrial Clear has a tensile strength of 7100 psi (ASTM D638). It has undergone numerous tests to assess its mechanical strength including tensile, compression, bend, peel, tear, shear, friction, torsion, elasticity and puncture tests. The result is a high-strength epoxy resin that will not bend once fully cured, with a bit flexibility built in to prevent it from cracking.

Is Industrial Clear scratch resistant?

Industrial Clear has a Shore D rating of 83, meaning it cures into a rock hard coating and is resistant to the type of damage caused by typical, everyday use. Allow the resin to come to a complete cure for a full 48 hours before putting your project into use. Keep in mind that objects that have the ability to scratch glass can also scratch resin, so we don’t recommend using it, for example, as a cutting surface. The good news is that if the resined surface does get scratched, it’s an easy fix: simply sand down and pour a fresh coat of Industrial Clear on top.

What is the best temperature for pouring Industrial Clear?

The ideal working temperature for Industrial Clear is between 70-80F (21-27C) and should be maintained while the resin cures. Do not work in temperatures below 50F (10C) or the resin may not cure. Avoid pouring in temperatures above 95F (35C): the heat may prompt an exothermic reaction causing the resin to get smoking hot, cure instantly and crack.

How thick can I pour Industrial Clear?

Industrial Clear can be poured in layers up to 1/2" or 12.7 mm at a time. Any thicker than this may cause an excessive heat build up in the resin, resulting in an exothermic reaction. If you want a thicker coat, it’s best to pour Industrial Clear in layers.

How do I pour multiple layers of Industrial Clear?

There are 2 methods that work well for pouring multiple layers. The first is to allow the initial resin layer to cure for 3-5 hours, until it’s set up but still sticky, and then pour the second coat directly on top. The stickiness of the first coat will provide some tooth for the second coat to adhere to. The two layers will cure simultaneously and create a tight bond. You can repeat this until you reach the desired thickness.

The second method is for resin that has been allowed to cure hard (typically after the 24 hour mark). Sand down the cured resin layer with coarse 80-120 grit sandpaper to allow the second coat to adhere. Wipe clean and pour the fresh resin coat directly on top. The resin will fill in any sanding marks. Don’t skip the sanding if you’re pouring a fresh coat onto a cured resin layer: the sanding provides tooth for good adhesion. Without sanding, the two layers may separate over time.

What is the shelf life of Industrial Clear?

The shelf life of Industrial Clear is 1 year in unopened containers and 6 months once opened. After this time, you may notice the hardener taking on an amber color from oxygen exposure. This oxidation does not affect the product’s performance or cure. In fact, when used over wood or other dark substrates, you will not notice the discoloration at all.

How do I store Industrial Clear?

Industrial Clear should be stored indoors, in a dry spot at room temperature. Ensure the bottles are tightly sealed. If the product does freeze, simply allow it to return to room temperature before use.

How do you clean up after working with Industrial Clear?

For easy clean up, use plastic tools & mixing containers and plastic or silicone liners to protect your work surface and floor. There are 2 methods that work well for cleaning up Industrial Clear. First, wipe down wet tools with paper towel to remove as much resin as possible. Next, spray with denatured alcohol or acetone and wipe clean with paper towel. Repeat this step until all traces of resin have been removed. Finally, wash the clean tools in hot soapy water and leave to dry. The second method is to leave wet plastic tools to dry overnight on a plastic lined work surface. The next day, once the resin is dry to the touch, simply peel the cured resin from the tools. Please note, resin does not adhere to plastic so this method only works with plastic or silicone tools.

How do you clean Industrial Clear?

Since Industrial Clear is waterproof once cured, you can clean the cured piece with a soft cloth and a mild dish soap without fear of damaging the surface. To restore the gloss, treat it as you would glass, with a non-abrasive glass cleaner and soft cloth. Avoid using steel wool, scouring pads or abrasive cleaners as they will scratch or dull the resin surface.

Safety

What safety precautions should I take when working with Industrial Clear?

Always wear gloves when working with epoxy resin to avoid a mess and possible skin irritation. Since Industrial Clear is a non-toxic epoxy resin, contains no solvents and releases no fumes or VOCs, a respirator is not required when working in a well-ventilated space. If you are at risk of the resin splashing in your eyes, wear protective safety goggles.  If resin gets in your eyes, flush repeatedly with water for 15 minutes, do not rub and seek prompt medical attention.  If resin gets on your skin, wash with warm soapy water. You may experience some itchiness or redness where the resin has been in contact with your skin, but this should subside once the resin has been removed.  If you experience swelling or skin rash, discontinue use immediately and seek medical attention.

Does Industrial Clear have a strong odor?

No, Industrial Clear has a low odor and can be used safely indoors or out. It has a slight smell, but since it doesn’t contain any solvents or other diluents, it doesn’t have the strong, noxious odor common with most other epoxy resins. Industrial Clear is made from 100% solids that fully react, leaving nothing behind in the formula that can be released into the air as fumes or VOCs. When working in a well-ventilated area, no respirator is required.

Is Industrial Clear food safe?

Yes, Industrial Clear has been tested according to food safety standards and passed. This means that once cured, Industrial Clear is inert and can be safely used as a food contact surface.  It’s important to accurately measure and completely mix Industrial Clear according to the directions and allow it to fully cure before it can be considered food safe. Use Industrial Clear to coat serving trays, charcuterie boards, bar tops, counters or anything else that is intended for contact with food.  We don’t recommend using Industrial Clear on any surface intended for cutting, such as a cutting board, or else it will become scratched. If scratching occurs, sand down the entire surface and pour a fresh coat of Industrial Resin and your piece will look as good as new.

Please note that Industrial Clear can no longer be considered food safe once the original formula has been compromised, including the addition of colorants. If you wish to use tinted resin, finish off your piece with a layer of clear Industrial Resin as a final top coat.

Does Industrial Clear contain BPA?

We are happy to report that Industrial Clear epoxy resin is BPA free.

Experimenting

What can I make with Industrial Clear?

Industrial Clear is a hard curing, high adhesion epoxy resin, intentionally formulated for the toughest of jobs and high traffic situations. It’s an ideal choice for countertops, tabletops, bar tops, woodworking, concrete floors, to protect against metal corrosion and for boat building and repair. No matter what your project, we’ve got you covered!

Is Industrial Clear machinable?

Yes, once Industrial Clear has been allowed to completely cure for 48 hours, it is fully machinable and can be sanded, drilled, or run through on a saw or lathe.

What surfaces will Industrial Clear adhere to?

Industrial Clear has great adhesion and will bond well to most materials including wood, metal, glass, ceramic and concrete. It creates a strong, waterproof seal that is easy to clean. For best results, ensure the substrate is clean and free of dust and grease.

It does not adhere well to most surfaces that repel water including plastic, acrylic, silicone, and vinyl. Use this to your advantage by pouring into silicone molds and you will not require a mold release spray.

We always recommend doing a test pour first on a sample piece so you know exactly what results to expect.

Can Industrial Clear be used for outdoor projects?

Yes, Industrial Clear can be used on both indoor and outdoor projects. It can withstand outdoor elements including summer heat and cold winter temperatures without cracking.

Will Industrial Clear fade in the sun?

Industrial Clear contains UV resistant additives that absorb the sun’s UV rays and slow down the damaging effects of the sun.

Is Industrial Clear waterproof?

Once cured, Industrial Resin is waterproof, durable and impervious to rain and snow. This waterproof property is why epoxy resin has long been used for swimming pools, in the aviation industry and in the marine industry to coat the underside of boats.

Is Industrial Resin chemical resistant?

Industrial Clear epoxy resin cures to a strong, durable finish that can withstand oils, gasoline, bleach, and most cleaners and chemicals.

Can I add color to Industrial Clear?

Yes, you can add colorant to Industrial Clear if you prefer the look of tinted resin. Industrial Clear is compatible with a wide variety of colorants so we recommend doing a sample test first to ensure the colorant provides the look you want. For best results, use a highly pigmented, non-water based colorant such as pigment paste, mica powder or a colorant specifically designed for resin. Be careful not to add more colorant than 6% of the total combined volume of resin and hardener or the resin may not cure properly. Always start with less colorant than you think you need and add more until you achieve the desired look.

Be aware that any addition to the Industrial Clear formula will compromise its food safety compliance.  If you want to use a tinted resin on a surface intended for food contact, apply a thin layer of clear Industrial Resin as a final topcoat. When adding colorants to Industrial Clear that are not labelled “non-toxic”, the mixture can no longer be considered non-toxic and safety precautions should be taken. If you add a material to Industrial Clear that contains a solvent (for example, spray paint or alcohol inks) the mixture may become flammable: do not use a flame torch to remove bubbles. 

Can I shape and mold Industrial Clear?

Yes, Industrial Clear can be shaped and molded while it’s curing. Allow the mixed resin to sit for approximately 6 hours until it’s dry to the touch, but still pliable. At this point, you can bend, mold and shape it however you want. Industrial Clear will hold the shape as it cures to a rock hard solid over the next few days.

Do I need to prepare wood before I use Industrial Clear on it?

Ensure wood is totally dry before coating it with Industrial Clear, especially if you plan to use it outside.  Next, you may want to seal the wood before applying Industrial Clear. Sealing first will prevent trapped air in the wood from releasing into the resin as bubbles.

Use a wood sealer or brush on a thin coat of Industrial Clear, taking particular care to cover and seal any cracks or voids in the wood.  Allow the sealant layer to dry thoroughly.Note - if you’re using a thin layer of Industrial Clear as your sealant, allow it to cure dry and sand with coarse, 80 grit sandpaper to create some tooth. Wipe the surface clean of sanding debris and apply the final coat of Industrial Clear. Alternatively, eliminate the need for sanding by pouring the second coat of Industrial Clear once the first coat is set up and still sticky, typically at the 3-5 hour mark.

Be aware that epoxy resin can change the color of wood. Typically, it enhances the color and grain, but we always advise doing a small sample test first so you know what results to expect. If the resin changes the color of the wood in a way you don’t want, try sealing the wood first.

Troubleshooting

Will Industrial Clear dent?

If you push your fingernail into cured Industrial Resin, it may leave an indent but will return to its original shape in a few minutes. You want your resin to have a little built in elasticity like this to prevent it from becoming brittle and cracking .

Will Industrial Clear crack?

No, the movement of your substrate will not cause Industrial Clear to crack once cured. When developing the formula, our goal was to hit the perfect sweet spot between strength and flexibility. Industrial Clear cures to a durable, rigid finish with a high Shore hardness, with just enough elasticity to prevent cracking.

How do I avoid bubbles?

There are a few precautions you can take to avoid excess bubbles when working with Industrial Clear:

  • stir slowly, by hand, to avoid introducing excess bubbles into the resin batch.
  • after the resin has been poured and spread, use a quick pass with a flame torch to remove bubbles that have risen to the surface of the resin. Repeat this step if bubbles continue to release, taking care not to hold the flame too close to the resin surface or in one spot for too long.  Do not use the torch on resin that has passed the 45 minute working window or you may end up with surface imperfections in your cured resin.
  • When sealing over a porous material like wood, sealing first (with either a sealant designed for wood or a very thin coat of Industrial Clear applied with a brush or gloved hand) will create a barrier that prevents trapped air from releasing into the resin as bubbles. Pay particular attention to seal any cracks, knots or voids in the wood. Ensure the first sealant layer has adequate time to dry before applying the final coat of Industrial Clear.

Why is my resin still sticky after pouring?

If the resin has not cured properly or has sticky spots, it could be caused by a few things:

  • the resin was not accurately measured at a 2:1 resin to hardener ratio, by volume.
  • the resin was under mixed.
  • the sides and bottom of the mixing container were not scraped, resulting in unmixed resin and hardener stuck to the sides of the container. Additionally, if the resin was scraped out as it was poured from the mixing container, the unmixed product stuck to the sides will contaminate the mixture, resulting in soft, sticky spots on an otherwise cured surface.
  • If the temperature is too cold during the curing process (less than 50F or 10C) the resin will not cure properly.  Try moving your piece to a warmer environment to see if it hardens up.
  • too much colorant was added, throwing off the ratio between the resin and hardener required for the two parts to cure properly.

If you find that the resin is still sticky after 24 hours in a warm environment, it will not cure any further until additional measures are taken. Scrape off any liquid, runny, resin as best you can (sticky is ok).  Sand down areas that cured properly and carefully remove the sanding debris.  Pour a fresh coat of accurately measured and well mixed Industrial Clear and allow it to cure in a warm, dry environment, ideally between 70 and 80F (21-27C).

How do I remove cured resin drips?

If the resin is dry to the touch but has not fully cured (i.e. at the 24 hour mark) drips that have accumulated on the underside of your project can be removed with a utility knife. If the drips have hardened, you can try using a heat gun to soften the resin and removing the drips with a scraper tool. Alternatively, you can use a sander or Dremel tool to grind them off.

The best way to deal with drips is to prevent them from happening in the first place by applying a good quality painter’s tape to the underside of your project. The resin drips will accumulate on the tape and once the resin is dry to the touch, the tape can be removed, along with the drips.

How do I fix surface imperfections in the cured resin surface?

Surface imperfections can result for a variety of reasons:

  • Dimples can be the result of contaminants including dust or other particles landing in the wet resin.  
  • Fisheyes can be caused by grease, wax, or oil that prevents the resin from adhering to the substrate.
  • An orange peel effect can be the result of a temperature dip during the first 24 hours of curing.

To fix surface imperfections, best practice is to sand down the entire surface with coarse, 80 grit sandpaper, wipe sanding debris clean and pour a fresh coat over top.  You can try spot fixing, but we don’t recommend it: it’s very difficult to match the two resin layers and you will almost always see the seam where the fresh resin has been applied.

Amine blush is a sticky, waxy, or oily substance on the surface of the cured resin and is the result of excess humidity during curing. To remove amine blush, simply wipe the surface clean with warm soapy water (ideally a grease fighting dish soap) and a soft cloth.

For best results, and to avoid surface imperfections in the first place, use a dust cover to protect the resin while it cures, ensure the substrate is clean of grease, dust and is completely dry before pouring, and ensure the resin cures in a warm (70-80F or 21-27C) dry environment with no temperature fluctuations.