1.5 Gallon Kit Rock-Hard Epoxy Resin & Hardener
1.5 Gallon Kit Rock-Hard Epoxy Resin & Hardener
- ROCK HARD FINISH - Designed to handle the toughest of jobs. UV protected, high gloss formula and an extra hard cure to protect your work for years to come.
- STRONG, DURABLE, RELIABLE - Resists water, chemicals and scratches. A high adhesion formula for high traffic areas including table, bar, and countertops, woodworking projects, floors, boats, metal corrosion protection, and more.
- EASY TO USE - Smooth, no-hassle application. Combine 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener. Mix for 4 minutes. Add color or keep clear. Apply to your surface and let it cure for 24 hours.
- SAFE - Non-Toxic and Food Safe. Our low odor formula has no VOCs, no fumes, no solvents, no fillers.
- PROUDLY MADE IN THE USA - Shore D Hardness 83. Non-Blushing. Industrial Clear works hard and stands the test of time.
- 1.5 GAL KIT COVERS 48 SQ. FT.
Durable
Extra Hard Cure
Easy to Use
Safe Ingredients
Made in USA
Not happy with epoxy, could not get bubbles out and fish scale look, not wavy, just could see the scaly look, had bubbles continue to come up all through out drying. Used this epoxy for outdoor dog crate tags, so small pours (tags were 10" x 3" and 1/2" thick).
After working with resin and nylon stockinette to cover the airframes for my high-powered rockets, I stumbled onto industrial clear. What a difference in the strength this resin gives my airframes. And the best part, thanks to the staff’s support, I am incorporating mica powders into the resin - no more painting. Not only are my airframes stronger, but they are looking amazing. Can’t wait to fly Eagle One v.3 - thank you Industrial Clear for making this possible. Pics will follow soon.
I loved the interesting cracks and details in this black walnut and thought it’d make a really nice serving board. I filled the cracks with blue tinted resin, but didn’t seal the wood first. My mistake, because the wood absorbed so much resin that I had to mix a second batch to re-fill the cracks the next day. I used a clear resin for the second pour to tone the blue down. This time I thought I’d plan ahead for absorption and poured extra - mistake #2. I poured too much and the resin ended up spreading out in a mess over the top of the board. I let it cure a few days until it was hard, then took it to a local wood shed and had them plane the board smooth and clean for me. Cost me $30 but it looks great now and ready for me to finish up. I was happy with Industrial Clear epoxy. No issues working with it, it mixed up nice, took the pigment well, easy to pour and looks great, but next time, I’m going to seal my board first and be more careful with the amount that I pour.
My wife saw this on Pinterest and thought it’d be fun for our lakehouse. Kids have a habit of leaving stuff outside so I wanted to epoxy it so the wood wouldn’t get destroyed from moisture. I had some leftover Industrial Clear from a boat repair job I did. Great that it’s so versatile (marine, countertop, wood etc). I sanded the wood down flat and smooth and used a Sharpie to draw in the grid and X’s and O’s. Then I poured an initial coat to fill in the crack and seal the top. Let it cure and then did the same on the bottom. Sanded it down and applied final flood coats in two stages, top and bottom. Actually turned out better than the picture my wife showed me as reference. We’ll see how it stands up over a few years, but I thought this was a great idea. Kids want a cornhole board next.
Lucky enough to move to a climate that’s warm all year round, so I’m building a bar in my backyard. Pride and joy will be this wooden bar top. I went back and forth between removing the bark and leaving it on, but decided to keep the nice dark edge. Happy I did, because it looks GREAT and frames the wood so perfectly. I coated the top and bottom in 2 different stages using Industrial Clear epoxy. It looks incredible and is now 100% waterproof and protected
